Sunday, December 04, 2005

Tourist in my own city

From Germany I flew to Barcelona to spend a long weekend. Every now and then, I feel the uncontrollable desire to go back to my beloved and heavily criticized city, and the €45.00 two hour flight from Stuttgart was too enticing to reject.
It’s been a long weekend here, they call it an aqueduct, because both Tuesday and Thursday were a holiday (the day of the Spanish Constitution and the day of the Immaculate Conception). So many people take the week off.
My arrival was impeccable, they have either fired the operations manager at the airport as I requested last time, or the guy went for some training to Schiphol or Changi (the airport, not the prison) and learnt something. My flight was on the monitors and the right conveyor belt was mentioned and, you are not going to believe it, my luggage was already standing there, someone had already removed it from the belt. Luck or improvements? I hope for the latter.
On Friday night I met my old friend Jordi, the creative director of a BCN based on-line fashion magazine called dRESSLAb. It was refreshing to talk to someone who was neither an engineer, nor a financial controller and in my own mother tongue.
We went for dinner to a restaurant I had never been in, it’s run by two young Basque entrepreneurs and serves what I would describe as Mediterranean “nouvelle cuisine” with an excellent presentation. The restaurant is called Freud b’ART and it is very close to the BCN Town Hall. That’s what we ate (unedited copy directly from their English menu):
o Bites of shrimps over black pepper pears and “ajoblanco” soup of coconut with duck ham oil.
o Sautéed scallops with mushroom vinaigrette and caramelized almonds
o Codfish loin candied at low temperatures with juice of red fruits and sweet pepper to the vanilla
o Black chocolate creamy cake in a soup of white chocolate and Brazil nut powder

We had a nice conversation about the new Catalan Estatut seen from inside and outside Catalonia only interrupted a dozen of times by his palindromic Polish girlfriend who sent constantly incomprehensible SMS messages.

Then we went to visit the controversial “caganer”-less Nativity display in front of the building of the Catalan government. It is a sterilized sort of environment and I have to agree that the “caganer” does not fit there at all, there is nowhere to hide.
After that we went to have a drink (or maybe two) at an area called Born (used to be BCN central food market). It has not changed much since I was a regular 20 years ago, it looked to me safer than before (although I always carry the wallet in the front pocket) and with many more fashion shops. We continued our nice conversation with Scotch at a bar called Mudanzas while the SMS messages continued to come.
And all these stories about people not willing to speak Spanish, nothing I came across, maybe just the opposite. I went to the central government representative office (“Delegación del Gobierno”) and absolutely no one spoke Catalan, so if you have to deal with any immigration issue, your Spanish is more than enough, none of the waiters that attended us were either Catalan or spoke a word of Catalan, and when I got close to a couple of Mossos d’Esquadra, the Catalan police that has just been deployed in Barcelona, they were speaking in Spanish!!!, in front of the Catalan government building. Everything is fine to me, I am glad that everyone talks in the language that he or she wants, but please stop telling false “hear-say” stories about Catalan language being forced onto visitors, because they have nothing to do with reality. And did I write a complaint because no one would reply me in my mother tongue? No, I switched to Spanish and continued with my speech, something I have always done and will always do. That’s why I learnt 9 languages.

23 comments:

Unknown said...

glad to hear Barcelona is doing fine- (i'm going to stop by there pretty soon....)

9 languages... hmmm lets see:
1. english
2. catalan
3. spanish
4. mandarin
5. german
6. french
7. italian

OK- if the above is true, then- very impressive already--- but what's the other two languages???

Anonymous said...

"...palindromic Polish girlfriend who sent constantly incomprehensible SMS messages"
Palindromic seems me appropriate obervation like a succession of graphic signs (letters, figures, symbols...) which can be read of left on the right and of right-hand side on the left, maybe like when we are drank :)and maybe it was difficult to understand SMS messages with a Scotch?:)

ian llorens said...

Ale:
8. Dutch
9. Indonesian
However, some of my languages are a bit rusty. Since I got married, I had to give up the methodology I was using to keep them live.
Anon:
Her name is a palindrome, it reads the same right to left and left to right like "A man, a plan, a canal, Panama"

Unknown said...

ohhhhhohohhhoooo--- ian is (was) one naughty guy!

that's a heluvalot of languages... boy you were pretty popular weren't ya!?

ian llorens said...

Ale:
I may have been, but clearly not anymore.
Decision criterion at that time: good grammar, more important than looks. However you would be surprised how many times they come together.
Now, let's stick to politics.
Back home in Mass. I went from 65 to 28 degrees. Tough!!

Habibi said...

Thank God someone said that!!!
I hate when people says that about Catalans not willing to talk in Spanish. I hate it.
Although I have been in situations that this have happened; but also in which Catalan Spanish-Mother-Tonguers who perfectly knew the Catalan language didn't want to talk in Spanish, and also English Speakers not willing to understand or help with the language barrier, and also French (from France not from Quebec who didn't know English) who didn't want to make an effort to speak to tourists in English or Spanish (both languages widely taught in the country)... And so on...
I love it when I see two people speaking in different languages: at the end of the day, the important thing is to understand each other, isn't it?
My mother tongue is Spanish. I have no problem whatsoever to speak in any of the (only three) languages I speak (bit problem with my poor French and my poor and forgotten Polish). I study Phylology (Hispanic Studies) and I studied and will study Linguistics. Even though I love languages, I DO realise that languages are only an instrument. Is like having a laptop and a PC. At home you use your PC and on your trips a laptop. Also you can have a USB!!

Habibi said...

Ah, btw, this about the 9 languages... They said one can only learn as much as 7 languages properly. Do you really do speak them all high level? Congrats if yes!

Anonymous said...

Ian, it was nice to confirm that we didn't get arrested by police because speaking in the "Language of the Empire".
Johnny

ian llorens said...

Habibi: in 1996-97 all of them quite fluent, now 3-native level (Cat, Sp, En), 2 fluent (Mandarin and French), 3 fair (German, Dutch, Italian) one basic (Indonesian).
Johnny, yes, you are right, we did not get arrested by the Catalan police for speaking in the "language of the empire". I think the key was ordering "cava" (Catalan champagne) for dinner as an antidote.

Guirilandia said...

I don’t think any amount of cava would make that pessebre look good, but I bet it would make think I could speak catalan! 9 languages … respect

Anonymous said...

Ian despite cava could help, even better, I agree with you that it did, my confidents confirm to me that new "Mossos d'Esquadra" generally do not speak catalan, they are being recruited from castilian environments. So, really normal to be free after our meeting!! More arguments against those claiming the aparent danger that spanish is suffering in Catalonia. Salut!

Anonymous said...

Hi,

One often regards the language as the means of expressing an idea; it would be thus an instrument of the thought. Is the language only one instrument of communication and expression? Does it make only express one opinion? These philosophical problems of the language relate to the metaphysical statute of the thought: if the thought preexists to the language, it is possible to occur from this material form; but if the thought cannot be reduced to the language, then this last a specific capacity, independent of other faculties. This problem of the connection of the language and the reason is also related to the question of knowing if the language reveals the spiritual nature of the Man, if the language is the characteristic of the Man.

Maybe all is true language incomprehensible?

Il existe un langage au-dèla de mots...mais c’est le langage est pas l’homme qui est unique.

I prefer visual language like an antidote .
It is an interesting picture and very appropriate choice in connection between politics and religion.
Where did you find these invaluable figures?They are in bronze or in gold?
With all respect to believers, christians this symbol of the lost empire or rather a metaphor of the language of the empire seems to be precious in a showcase.
I look for this kind of figures for my aquarium Christmas decoration.:)Useful.
With my red fish it will be nice...:)

My english is bad but i learn so some exercises seems make me good.
HAPPY CHRISTMAS!

Lady INCOGNITO

Anonymous said...

P.S.I forgot to add:

It’s more interesting to read about yours English menu choice that see all this languistique conflict which don’t exist only in Spain!
People, let’s leave this boring nationalism and patriotic pride connected to the languages behind!Why we just don’t share our menus of our differents countrys to find new sensations and to enrich our taste(s) for exemple! Similar to learn new language!

and it’s maybe more interesting to see just human value and try to find beauty of this world.

It's all right for a woman to be, above all, human. I’m a woman first of all!!

Lady Incognito

Anonymous said...

Il existe un langage au-dèla de mots...mais c’est le langage est pas l’homme qui est unique.

I prefer SOME visual language EXEMPLES like an antidote.

It is an interesting picture and very appropriate choice in connection between politics and religion.
AND this kind of “ART”! ART IS POLITICS & RELIGION TOGETHER.THERE ARE NOT SO MUCH EXEMPLES OF PURE EXPRESSIONS AND CLEAR INTENTIONS IN THIS WORLD, WHICH I CALL “SPIRITUAL NATURE”

Where did you find these invaluable figures?They are in bronze or in gold?
(IF GOLD COULD BE PRECIOUS! ONE EXEMPLE MORE TO SHOW HUMAN "LANGUAGE" MAYESTY!)
With all respect to believers, christians, this symbol of “the lost empire” or rather a metaphor of “the language of the empire” seems to be ONLY precious in a showcase,THIS SHOWCASE.
LET’S LET THEM IN A MUSEUM! Et pourtant...MY DECORATION WILL BE POOR!
I look for this kind of figures for my aquarium Christmas decoration.Useful.
(USEFUL THE SAME LIKE TO USE A LANGUAGE AND DON’T BE UNDERSTAND AND USEFUL LIKE
RELIGION OR “ART” FOR WEAK PEOPLE!)
With my red fish it will be nice...:) MAYBE FOR SOMEONE JUST AN DECORATION TO CHANGE WITH NEXT SEASON

It’s more interesting to read about yours English menu (“UNEDITED COPY”) choice that see all this languistique conflict which don’t exist only in Spain!ALSO ON THE MOON!:)
People, let’s leave this boring nationalism and patriotic pride connected to the languages behind!Why we just don’t share our menus of our differents countrys to find new sensations and to enrich our taste(s) for exemple! Similar to learn new language!
WITH A SUBTLE DIFFERENCE THAT EVERYBODY HAS A DIFFERENT AND UNIQUE PALATE & A DIFFERENT SENSATION and some of them choice for unedited copy.:)

Where is CHAMPAGNE FOR NEXT YEAR?!

lAdy who understand NOTHING except... "Il existe un langage au-dèla de mots...mais c’est le langage est pas l’homme qui est unique."

THIS TIME HAPPY NEW YEAR!:)

JN said...

a la meva web trobaràs una foto indignant sobre el boicot del cava català. http://pereserafi.blogspot.com

ian llorens said...

I am overwhelmed by some much depth of thought, including French quotations to spice up the postings. I cannot lose face and I have to do the same:

Au clair de la lune,
Mon ami Pierrot
Prête moi ta lume
Pour écrire un mot
Ma chandelle est morte
Je n'ai plus de feu

Some answers:
- The Nativity display is located in front of the Barcelona City Hall (St James square). I have no clue about the material, but it is for sure NOT gold. The figurines would have not lasted 5 minutes there, if they were gold.
- In order to be global, you need to be local too. The longer I am away from home, the more I feel attached to the land of my ancestors. Just recently I felt the urge to go back to my grandfather's home town where I had not been for more than 20 years.
- To be global you need to understand certain very local things: you should not give a clock as a present to a Chinese, you should not say in Catalonia that Catalan is an Spanish dialect, you should not call Dutch to a Flemish, nor German to an Austrian, nor Catalan to a Valencian. Learning this little things, as well as eating sashimi, pig and chicken feet or bat stew, makes you really global. N'est pas? Mademoiselle Incognito.

Anonymous said...

Bravo!
It's a pity that people take things and thoughts literally often but a nice poeme for my child!
My little “performance” was not an critic against you but to insinuate generaly that there are
some different ways to see a language... and to say that there are another language conflicts.
“The longer I am away from home, the more I feel attached to the land of my ancestors.”
I left my country of orgin from long time ago so you don’t have to tell me....i know what you mean but
I ‘m just glad about my origin.

“We don’t see things as they are.We see them as we are”
?

p;s; of course i can see that the figures are not in gold but it’s just appropriate in this
Christmas time :)

Madame Incognito
(pas Mademoiselle!)

ian llorens said...

For me, even between lullabies, you are and will always be a miss, since you sound like a demoiselle. Kids do not alter the essence of the matter, but enhance it.

Au revoir.

Anonymous said...

Some people take no mental exercise apart from jumping to conclusions without to know facts or a person.

It is necessary to have a sens of humour to arrive at a level of the irony! ( poeme/child ) and it is necessary to have an abstract capacity to thinking for understand some things...

On Kawara, Joseph Kosuth, Dan Graham,Laurie Anderson, Rothko,Malewitch....to quote some examples of another languages or simply Lab-au http://www.lab-au.com, Stanza http://www.stanza.co.uk (in current waves).Just another way to exploring space, another cartography, new language... new space constructs relative to information processes, conceptual level or exemples of some “spiritual nature” . More universal or essential.

Another intersting project of another language:
http://www.ada-ausstellung.ch/content.cfm?uNav=7&uLang=2

It is just a mistake to find this blog.
I’m sorry because i’m not interested in politics and it’s one of my friend who sent me your blog link,i just thought “language” like an interesting subject to explore in space but politics is not my power.

The person who dosen't make mistakes is unlikely to make antyhing.

ADIOS.
mADAme "incognito"?

Anonymous said...

p.s.
the SMS messages becomes comprehensible when you are not concerned

ian llorens said...

I do understand that this is not the right blog for such a high level of sophistication. It would be impossible for me to ADApt to your requirements. I am ADAmant to continue with my political pitch, in which down to earth local language plays a certain role.
Your namesake Lady Lovelace wrote about mathematics without understanding much its content, but the language was beautiful.
SMS is handy but blogs, if you had any, would open up new universes, especially if you would POLISH your grammar.

In Spanish the only difference between you and a fairy is a silent consonant.

We'll miss you.

Anonymous said...

aHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !
a fantastic difference !

“I do understand that this is not the right blog for such a high level of sophistication.”
It is what you said but rather it is just impossible to ADApt to your level, certainly to understand all blog content. Ca me dépasse légèrement. :)

If you know computer language you will understand more the importance
of the First Lady Lovelace Computer Thought.
Her Notes anticipate future developments, including computer-generated music.
He was one of the most picturesque characters in the history of technology.Ada's letters are some of the classic founding documents of cybernetics and computer science, written nearly a century before ENIAC and i’m not the only one to see her thoughts importance but for you it is just beautiful.
Without her language we will be propably not where we are today and there are a lot of people who were inspired about...

Of course my grammar is not on your level , i know it but if i speak in my local language you will understand less more.

The medium is the message but writing is not my strong point.
I leave this place for those of you who are more telented.

Be like Stravinsky who said:
“I don’t write music, I invent it”.

Have a good blog time!

Anonymous said...

I don’t need to create my blog to open up new universes (for my grammar yes) when i see something interesting in your blog.
I don't try to arrive to your language level.

Your english is perfect to express your thoughts but i don’t understand this defense of your language.
Of couse it is interesting to learn new language, the best way to meet a new culture, to find connection with new people, country... but where start all language conflict? THE POWER.
Your next article “ABC” is interesting but...

An coflict start with people who absolutely and definitely wants always to have right, to defend their point of view and who think that his language,culture is the best of the world.Nombrilistique, narrow-minded and just blind.

You don’t want to make die out your rich culture? so learn your children your mother tongue and show them what you know.Do the cooking your favorite traditional meal and share it with your international friends, for exemple.

But i just see something different, another languages, more universal because nowbody make "war" there except to express oneself (maybe a kind of personal war somethimes), that's all.
I see an human potential at least.

Politics don't advance. And an human thought?
Where is the progress?
I have my personal answer for me.

Do you know one political diagram which works?
I just don't see a sens in politics and what i don't understand is the sens of your blog.
What you can to do except to take your personal position?
What you can change? Where do you want to arrive?
It's good to take your personal position and to have your personal opinion and interesting to read some anecdotes.

Your blog is idealisitc and maybe utopian, there is something which i like.

I visited Spain three times.Beautiful country, interesting culture & very good food.Exotic for me!
I didn’t have any language problems except one time when i was speaking in polish to my friend and he was speaking in catalan.That’s language confusion and that’s my conclusion! :)

don't lose your face!
goodbye
mADAme